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Dragon Tips

Information and tips About Chinese water Dragon Care

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      I've decided to use this article to try to answer some of the most commonly asked questions. If your question is not covered below, or in the Water Dragon FAQ Please go to the main page of this web site "Tricia's Water Dragon Page" and look through the index to see if the topic that you are interesting in finding more about is covered on another page, or use the search engine on the main page to find a word that you are looking for on the site.

     The Water Dragon FAQ covers common ailments extensively and goes over the basics of water dragon care, including in depth info on their diet.

      This "little" <smirk> article covers lethargy and illness caused by improper temperatures, calcium deficiency or MBD and mouth rot, then it goes on to discuss other common questions that I receive such as "how do I tell if my dragon is male or female?", "how do I tell how old my dragon is?", and links to other pages on "Tricia's Water Dragon Page" That already address the most common questions that people send to me.

      I sincerely hope that you find this article helpful. Please remember to bookmark this page so that you can refer to it if you have questions or a problem develops with your dragon. Also remember that if you're worried about your dragons health the best thing you can do is take it to a reptile veterinarian.

** For info on finding a reptile vet please see the bottom of this page! **

If your dragon is not eating well, lethargic (sleepy), less active

The importance of keeping your dragon at proper temperatures

      What temperatures are you keeping your dragon at? Proper day time temps should be 84 to 88 F (28.8 C to 31.1 C), with a basking spot of 90 to 95 F (32.2 C to 34.99 C); Night time temps should be 75 to 80 F (23.88 C to 26.66 C). You should have two thermometers in the cage in case one is faulty!!!!

      If you are having trouble keeping the temperatures correct in the cage try changing the wattage of the basking bulb you are using until you reach the correct temps. If you are still having trouble keeping the temps up put a human heating pad under the propped up cage, set the heating pad on low (prop up the cage so the heating pad doesn't directly touch the glass or the glass with get very hot and could possibly burn the reptile or dry out the substrate too quickly causing low humidity problems!). This will help add some ambient heat to the cage.

      Oh and throw away that hot rock (heat rock or sizzle stone or heat cave)... it will burn your reptile, or short or smoke ... its a possible fire hazard at the very least! There are no safe precautions to take with a hot rock to ensure that it doesn't hurt your animal or endanger even your life or your household. Checking the rock daily may not help. The best prevention is to simply not use the hot rock.

      If the cage has a screen lid you can try to cover part of the lid with a towel or piece of glass in order to keep some of the heat and humidity in the cage. If your cage is screen- good luck!- you can get thick Styrofoam and stick it on the sides and back to insulate the cage ... just watch that no lights are near the Styrofoam as you don't want a fire hazard! Please see: Heat sources

      If the temps are too high your dragon might not eat well, dehydrate and become lethargic.

      If the temps are too low the dragon will likely not eat well if at all, and may gape- this is a big sign of respiratory infection!, or it could develop a bowel obstruction due to food not being digested properly due to low temps. Improper temps leads to all kinds of ailments from respiratory infections, obstructions, weakens the immune system which might in turn give any parasites the dragon has in it a chance to multiply and overwhelm the dragon (stress seems to do that too!), poor digestion due to low temps could also lead to calcium deficiency. Please see Temperature and Common Ailments of Water Dragons.

The importance of proper lighting

      Do you have a UVB light over your dragon?
      No ... I don't mean a basking light ... no, I don't mean a round incandescent bulb. I mean a Fluorescent tube that has a UVB output in the 290 to 310 nm range such as a vitalight or a reptisun fluorescent tube. There are many brands of UVB producing fluorescent tubes, the vitalight and reptisun are just two examples.

      IF you do have a UVB fluorescent tube, is it set up correctly?
      The UVB fluorescent should be set up so that it is no more than 10 inches above your dragon with no glass or plastic between the light and the dragon as UVB rays do not penetrate through these materials well at all. The UVB fluorescent light helps your dragon produce the vitamin D2 in it's skin, which in turn turns into vitamin D3, which helps the dragon use the calcium in it's diet properly.

      If the dragon doesn't have UVB lighting, or doesn't have regular access to unfiltered natural sunlight (not through glass cage!!!) it may suffer from calcium deficiency, and that can cause lethargy, lessened or lack of appetite, trembling, seizures, malformed jaw, swellings in legs, easily broken bones, and eventually death. This is an ailment that needs veterinary care- immediate veterinary care! If you think your dragon might be suffering from this ailment please see Metabolic Bone Disease and see Lighting

Health check up at the Vets, and internal parasites

      Have you ever taken your dragon to the vet for a check up?
      If your dragon is lethargic, not eating well, or is eating well but doesn't seem to be growing or is losing weight, AND it's stools are not well formed but are soft, break up easily, very smelly, diarrhea like, loose, and the dragon seems to pass stool frequently and not in it's water dish it could have internal parasites. You should, at the very least, take a fresh stool sample to the vet and have it tested for internal parasites, then treat the animal according to vets instructions which will likely include giving your dragon oral medications such as Panacur and Flagyl. Please see Internal Parasites and Panacur, antiparasitic drugs, and symptoms of parasite infection

      An initial check-up at the vets shortly after purchasing the dragon, along with having a fresh stool sample tested for parasites is one of the best recommendations I can make to new dragon owners. By going to the vet early you can perhaps catch illnesses that your dragon might already have in the early, easily treatable, and less expensive to treat at the vets stage, and you can also learn a bit more about your water dragon and it's care if you have found a knowledgeable vet. This will also allow you to investigate your local vet and an establish a good working relationship with him or her BEFORE an emergency happens!

      Already having, and knowing, a good reptile vet before a health crisis comes up with your reptile is a very good idea.

Snout banging, and mouth rot

      If you are reading this article because your dragon is banging it's snout on the cage and damaging it you likely have your dragon in a glass aquarium. The tank might be tooooooo small. Water dragons do NOT understand glass at all so what you are going to have to do is change the dragons behaviour to eliminate the snout rubbing.

      Plant some plants along the inside edges of the cage to let the dragon know there is a barrier there (live plants help with the humidity too!).

      Or put some paper, or decorative aquarium background paper, along the lower outside 6" on the cage (front, back, sides) and this will tell the dragon that there is a barrier there that he cant pass through.

      Also change the angle of your basking lights if they are causing reflections on the inside of the glass. IF the dragon can see it's own reflection in the glass it might think another dragon is trying to invade it's territory and it might be banging against the glass in an attempt to fight it's own reflection.

      Ok now that you've fixed the behavioural problem of snout banging by moving the dragon into a much larger home and or putting up paper and plants along the edges of the cage you have to fix the actual damage. :(

      Snout rubbing can be as minor as bruising or slight scabbing on the snout. This kind of damage can usually be taken care of at home by applying betadine (get over the counter in a drug store) to the wound for a short period, and a topical antibacterial ointment such as neosporin, triple antibiotic ointment or polysporin to the wound.

      If the damage is more extensive or you can see a white cheesy substance (that is puss!) or the inside of the mouth is reddened, swollen or irritated looking you will have to see a vet. Your dragon might have a serious infection going on and will likely have to be put on oral or injectable antibiotics to clear the infection.

      An infection left untended or an abrasion that gets a deep infection within it can lead to systemic infection and or the infection could spread into the bone and cause bone death. :( If you've been watching water dragons for a while now you've probably seen more than a few with the front of their faces missing - actual bone and teeth missing. This is from snout rubbing that led to infection and bone death. Take your dragon to a reptile vet BEFORE the damage and infection gets this bad! Please!

      Damaged snout tissue will remain damaged, bruising or scabbing can lead to permanent scale loss and won't look so terrible, but if the dragon bangs enough that actual flesh comes off or the infection goes deep and there is bone loss well that damage is permanent. :(

      If your dragon has some snout damage and becomes lethargic, isn't eating well etc. please take it to a vet. This could be a sign that the infection has gone systemic or that the damage is so bad it's hurting the dragon to eat, either way it more than likely needs proper medical attention ASAP. Please also see Mouthrot/Stomatitis and Snout Rubbing- Effects of, and Prevention

** For info on finding a reptile vet please see the bottom of this page! **

Miscellaneous questions:

1. My dragon sits with it's mouth open a lot:

      Is your dragon new?
      This might just be fear ... the dragon is threatening to bite you, although I've heard of very few aggressive dragons. Consider this more talk than action.

      If you've had your dragon for a while and it's been doing this all along or has just started doing this- Check that the cage temps are proper, high temps could cause panting and gaping, low temps could cause a Respiratory infection which would need Immediate medical attention.

      Look your dragons mouth over carefully. Is the snout damaged from snout banging or rubbing? Is the inside of the mouth reddened or swollen? Do you see any white cheesy material anywhere? Your dragon could have mouthrot or an infection. Please take him to a reptile vet if you see any of these problems!

2. My dragon dives into the water and stays under for a long time! Help!

      Is there anything going on in the room i.e. noise, lots of activity, that might be scaring him? Can he see other pets of yours that might frighten him such as a bird or cat, or maybe even a dog? Can he see outside, and if so are there lots of birds flying around outside?

      Water dragons do commonly go underwater for periods of time, but usually because they are frightened or stressed - they are hiding. They can stay under for about a half hour but are sometimes lethargic or dopey when you rescue them.

      If your dragon only does this on the rare occasion I wouldn't worry about it too much. Do make sure there is nothing in the water that the dragon could get caught under and drown while in this frightened state, unfortunately this happens often enough.

      If this is happening several times a month or several times a week I would check how you have him set up and what he might be able to see and hear from his cage and adjust things for him so that they are quieter.

3. My dragon is eating it's own stool! Is this normal?

      They do this on occasion. It's fairly normal. However if your dragon is doing this a lot it might mean you aren't feeding him enough, or that there aren't enough nutrients in the diet you are feeding him. Evaluate his enclosure and the basic care that you are providing.

      Some times reptiles and other animals eat their own stool in order to replace some of the good bacteria in their gut that helps them digest food properly. You might try giving your dragon a tiny dab of berry flavoured yogurt (with live bacterial culture in it) on the end of his snout. The dragon should lick this off easily enough. The live bacterial culture in the yogurt might help to replace some good bacterial flora in the gut and aid the digestive processes.

      A dab of yogurt might also be good to offer after your dragon, or other reptile, has been on antibiotics too, since antibiotics tend to kill both the good and bad bacteria in the gastrointestinal system. This might help get your dragons digestion back on track.

4. What is gutloading???

      Gut loading is feeding the crickets or mealworms (or other insects) nutritious food items like collard, mustard or dandelion greens and other veggies high in calcium but low in phosphorus, and perhaps sprinkling some calcium and vitamins on the food items that the bugs eat. Gut loading helps ensure that the insects have some nutritious food items inside them when they get eaten by the lizards. :)

5. My dragon often keeps one eye closed:

      Is it the eye that is closest to you that is always closed when you are near, but open when you are far away from the dragon? If so, he's hiding or avoiding you. :) Little bit of fear there. Otherwise it could be that that eye is getting ready to shed and he's closing it, and maybe making it bulge out a bit to stretch the skin and help it peel off easier ...

      If he's keeping the eye closed most of the time he could have something in the eye or an infection. Try flushing it with clean water and see if that seems to help. If the eye does not improve or worsens (reddened, puss or sticky material surrounds the eye) please take your dragon to a reptile vet ASAP.

      You might be happy to know about this eye bulging just before shedding behaviour ahead of time. I had one person send me a humorous, yet concerned letter asking me if her dragon had something wrong with it because it looked like it was going to explode, and if it was she just wanted to be prepared for that event! LOL :)

6. How do I get my dragon to eat veggies and fruit?

      You can try hand feeding or putting it in a bowl. Make sure the fruit and veggies are small enough to eat easily. Your dragon may not eat them though, most dragons it seems do not eat fruit and veggies, but if yours will go for it .

      Some dragon owners have had success with getting their dragons to eat some veggies and fruit by putting some live bugs- mealworms or legless crickets in an escape proof bowl for the dragons to eat from. The idea is that the dragon trying to eat the insects should accidentally end up eating some of the fruit and veggies too.

7. How do I feed my dragon? And how do I get it to eat pinkies and feeder fish?

      Water dragons are considered omnivores. Please see the diet section of the water dragon FAQ for more information on what to feed your dragon. You can offer food items by hand, by holding the food item (fish, pinky, insect ...) in tweezers, or you can drop it in front of the dragon, or you can serve it to him in a bowl. The point is, it doesn't matter how you feed the dragon ... just do whatever works best for the dragon.

      If the dragon isn't eating well, try offering different types of food items, sometimes they get bored, and try offering food in different ways if your dragon doesn't seem too interested with the way you normally offer the food. Throw crickets in the dragons water dish ... sometimes the sight of struggling crickets sparks a non eating dragons interest. Feeding the dragon at slightly different times of day may make the dragon take more interest in the food being offered. Dangle or dragon pre killed food items such as pinky mice in front of the dragon ... this makes the pre killed food item move a bit and seem alive and sometimes that is all that is needed to get the dragon to try the food.

      If you are trying to feed your dragon fish for the first time ... especially live fish ... you likely wont have much luck if you just put the fish in the dragons water dish. Try letting the fish flop on the ground in front of the dragon. This usually works well!

      When offering pinkies or feeder fish for the first time you might want to be SURE the dragon is hungry. If the dragon is healthy and is not too thin, you might want to try not feeding it for a day or two, then offering a pinky for the first time. You might have more success this way. A well fed dragon may not be quite as eager to try something new.

8. Why you should NOT feed live Rodent prey to your reptiles:

      Some people offer their reptiles live prey in the form of live pinkies, fuzzies, mice, rats etc. I've always been against this practice because it seems inhumane, and because of the risk of injury to the reptile being fed. It might be natural for the reptile to eat live prey in the wild, but when they are living in the wild they are also not confined to a small area perhaps with prey that they are not yet ready to eat. Live prey will defend itself. Live prey may also decide to bite or prey on the reptile if the animal is not interested in feeding and the rodent is left in the cage unattended.

      The April 1999 issue of Reptiles Magazine, Veterinarian Q&A by Dr. Douglas Mader, M.S., D.V.M., D.A.B.V.P. Page 18 states in reference to bites and injuries inflicted by rodents:

      "Now for the first question. Why is it that this is often a very serious and sometimes fatal wound? There are two reasons. The first is that rodents carry a number of very infectious bacteria on their teeth. Some of these bacteria are associated with rat-bite fever in people. When these bacteria are inoculated into the skin from the bite wound, certain types can produce a toxin that can be lethal to snakes. It doesn't take long for these toxins to be produced, and that is why time is of the essence in getting the snake to the veterinarian for treatment. Even if the offending bacteria are killed with antibiotics, the antibiotics will not kill or remove the toxin that the bacteria have produced. Any toxin that is produced will be absorbed by the host animal. If the bitten animal is strong and healthy, and only a small quantity of toxin has been produced, then there is a chance of recovery."

      "The second reason these wounds are often fatal is due to the actual mechanical nature of the wounds themselves. Rodents have a habit of gnawing when they eat. When they attack the predator, they usually make their first bite over the backbone region and then continue either toward the head or the tail of the snake with each successive bite. These bite wounds will often puncture the spinal cord. If this happens, an often fatal spinal meningitis will occur."

      Mader is discussing the fatal wounds on a correspondents' snake, but I'm 100% sure that the information he has states applies equally well to live rodents being fed to lizards.

9. I want to get another dragon to keep my dragon company.

      If you decide to get another dragon, please keep the new dragon in a separate cage for one to three months. During this time period have the new dragon tested for parasites and take it to the vet for a check up. The last thing you want to do is introduce a sickly dragon to your healthy dragon and end up with two sick or dying dragons! This will also give the new dragon time to get used to being in your home and to de stress. Please see New Reptile- Quarantine and signs of Illness.

      Your new dragon should be approx the same size as the one you already have. This will lessen stress and aggressive behaviours from one or the other dragons when they are introduced. Two females generally get along well, a male and a female also generally get along very well. Two males will not get along and may fight to the death. Do not house two males together- EVER. If you aren't sure of the sex of your dragon please see Sexing your water dragon

10. Can I keep my water dragon with a different type of lizard or reptile or amphibian?

      Short answer- Not likely ... in most cases it's a very very bad idea ...

      Long answer- Cats, and Dogs, Other Herps, and water dragons

11. I'm thinking of getting a dragon but I want to find out more about them, and I also want to find a breeder

      First of all- Good for you. Hopefully by doing your research first and learning all you can about the kind of care a water dragon needs you will do very well with your first dragon. :) To learn even more about water dragons you might think of joining the water dragon mailing list. It's free! Please see for more information.

      As for breeders or where to buy a dragon?
Lots of people ask me if I sell them, so the number one answer, no I don't sell dragons. :) I've either had dragons given to me, rescued them from pet stores, and I bought my first two - Rogue and Night- at a reptile show. Rogue and Night are the only two dragons that I've actually purchased.

      If you are serious about getting a healthy dragon try to find a breeder in your area. If you have a herpetological society in your area call them up and ask them if anyone breeds water dragons. Call reptile vets and even local zoos and ask them the same question. If you can't find a local breeder you might want to see if there is a reptile show in your area. Often breeders take their animals to local reptile shows to sell them.

      If you can't find a breeder or a reptile show you will likely have to purchase your dragon from a pet store or from a reptile mail order supplier. Please see Purchasing a water dragon for more info on how to select a healthy dragon and how to find breeders and mail order suppliers.

      Purchasing a captive bred animal is usually best. They may cost more but they will save you money in the long run because they should be healthier and less stressed. Wild caught animals often have internal parasites (although captive bred animals can too), are highly stressed and may have other ailments which often requires multiple visits to the vet for treatment. With a captive bred animal, I still suggest an initial check up and testing the stool for parasites, but if you keep it well that might be the only vet care it requires.

12. My dragon spends a lot of time digging

      IF your dragon is digging a lot is there any chance that it's female?

      IF it's about 20 inches in length or longer it might be mature enough to develop eggs and it might be digging because it's trying to create a nesting site. For more information about the care of female dragons, breeding, preparing a nesting site, incubating eggs, and care of hatchlings please see

      Otherwise, the home might be too small, or some dragons seem to be diggers although most are not. Carefully evaluate your set up and make adjustments after reading the FAQ if possible.

13. My dragon isn't eating as much lately but is very active

      Could your dragon be female? Gravid (pregnant) females often become more active shortly before egg laying time and are well known for not eating well or not eating at all in the last month before laying eggs. Please see Breeding Water Dragons for more info.

      Sexually mature male dragons often become more active, and try to get out of the cage during breeding season. They also may eat a lot less as well. I believe this is due to the fact that they have one thing, and one thing only on their minds (guess what that is? mating).

      Any time a dragon changes its behaviour in any way - even if it's subtle, please try to remember to check it's enclosure over careful and evaluate the care you are giving the animal. Small changes in behaviour may be the first sign of trouble.

14. How do I tell if my dragon is male or female?

      Please see

15. I'm not sure how old my dragon is?

      Please see for a general idea

16. My dragon does the cutest thing when I turn him on his back- He goes to sleep!

      No, your dragon isn't sleeping! More likely he's suffocating!

      Lizards do not have diaphragms. The diaphragm in a human is located under the lungs. It helps our lungs expand and contract to bring in air or expel air from our lungs. The diaphragm in humans also helps keep the abdominal organs from getting into the lung cavity.

      Reptiles don't have this so they use the their ribs to expand or contract their lungs and fill them or expel air from their lungs.

      When a lizard is placed on it's back the abdominal organs may displace and apply pressure to the lizards lung cavity and rib cage. This may make the act of breathing very difficult for your lizard. So when you turn your dragon on it's back and it closes it's eyes, it's probably not sleeping ... it might be zoning out to some degree though ... it's most likely concentrating on breathing.

      A reptile left on it's back for a period of time will often die of suffocation ... and in some cases exposure such as a turtle turned on it's back that cant right itself, baking in the hot sun. :(

17. I just got my dragon and he's afraid of me, he doesn't like being handled.

      Dragons are frisky when they are new to a home and it takes a while to tame them. Please see Behaviour of Water Dragons for more info on taming, handling and dragon proofing a room so that your dragon can roam around for a short period- safely.

18. My dragon arm waves and bobs it's head a lot- that means it's male right?


      Both male and female dragons exhibit arm waving, head bobbing, tail twitching or flicking tails and chasing.

      Males tend to do more bobbing, flicking and chasing while females tend to do more arm waving (don't say it guys ... I can hear a line about human females here too!).

      Just because your dragon does one or more of these things will not be a good determinant as to it's sex. Please see for more info on how to tell males and females apart.

      Arm waving and bobbing are considered aggressive - even sitting on another dragon can be deemed as aggressive if the dragon being sat on all the time or arm waved at isn't eating well, isn't growing as much as it should or seems sickly - it could be suffering from stress due to it's cage mates aggression and should more than likely be moved to a separate cage.

      If you can't move the dragon that is being picked on to another cage do give it more attention and when feeding, feed the more aggressive dragon first, then take that dragon out of the cage and offer food to the dragon that isn't doing as well ... it may eat better when the threat of the other dragon bothering it isn't present. IF one of your dragons isn't doing well, likely due to aggression, it could be more susceptible to illness ... it would be a good idea to take it to a vet for a check up at this time before it really does become ill.

19. I've had my dragon for a while and he doesn't seem to be growing

How often is he shedding?
      A young dragon in it's first year sheds every three to four weeks. Older dragons shed less often but in general about once every two months, but an older dragon wont appear to be doing much growing of course.

How often are you feeding him?
      I would feed him every day, up to 10 or so appropriately sized food items such as crickets or mealworms or earthworms (dragons over 12 to 14 inches in length can also eat feeder fish and baby pinkies (1 to 5 depending upon size of food item and size of dragon)).

Do you have his cage temps correct?
Proper heating aids digestion of food and growth, and absorption of calcium from the diet.

Do you have UVB fluorescent lighting over him? And is it set up correctly?
Have you had him tested for internal parasites by taking a fresh stool sample to the vet?
Check the dragon over for any problems in the mouth or snout area, and for any cuts, abscesses or bumps in the body or limbs or tail.
Take the dragon to the vet if you discover a problem as the dragon might have a systemic infection or calcium deficiency.

20. My dragon doesn't seem to be shedding it's skin properly, what can I do?

      Please read my shedding page

21. Can my lizard make me sick? I keep hearing about reptiles and Salmonella.

      Yes, your reptile does have the potential to make you ill, just as even a cat or dog might carry zoonotic disease (an illness that can transfer from animal to human), or parasites.

      Many reptiles, birds, hedgehogs, dogs and cats carry salmonella. There are over 2000 species of salmonella bacteria. Not all of them are harmful to humans and only a few are carried by reptiles. It is however best to consider that your reptile might carry salmonella bacteria and take proper precautions when handling your reptile or washing its food or water dishes and other items used by the lizard.

      Please see to learn more about salmonella and how to take precautions against this bacteria.


      I think I have covered the top questions that I get asked most frequently. If I think of more I will add them to this list. Please remember that almost any question you can think of - it's been asked before, and more than likely the information is either right here in this article, on the water dragon FAQ or somewhere in the 100 web pages that make up the "Tricia's Water Dragon Page" site. I know the site is extensive, but take a good look around, I think you'll find just about all the answers to your questions right there. :) Use the search engine on the main page to find key words listed in the site.

It would also be in your best interest to perhaps purchase a book specifically about the care of the Chinese water dragon. I have created a Recommended Reading- Reptile and Amphibians page on which there are two water dragon care booklets listed.

The importance of veterinary care, and finding a reptile vet

      If you have questions concerning the health of your animal, and you believe that it is sick PLEASE take your reptile or amphibian to a reptile vet, and get the proper treatment for it. I am not a vet, and while you may write to me about your animals health, I can give advice on care prior to or after medical attention, but I'm no substitute for proper medical attention. :)

      Please see a reptile vet if you are concerned for your reptile. If money is an issue- talk to the vet about a payment plan or about postdated cheques- many veterinarians will work with you if you are low on funds.

      If you do not know of a good reptile veterinarian in your area please visit one of the following pages: Canadian Reptile Vets and for USA or other International Reptile vet listings

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Water Dragon Books

Green Water Dragons, Sailfin Lizards and Basilisks (General Care and Maintenance of Series) by Philippe De Vosjoli

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      Basic but detailed information about the care, diet, and health of green water dragons, sailfin lizards and basilisks.

Anoles, Basilisks, and Water Dragons Anoles, Basilisks and Water Dragons : A Complete Pet Care Manual (More Complete Pet Owner's Manuals) by Richard D. Bartlett, Patricia P. Bartlett (Contributor)

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     Discussion of the general care of many species of anole, basilisks and water dragons. Excellent information regarding enclosures, cage building, and insect care and breeding.

Eat this Bug Eat This Bug : A Guide to Invertebrate Live Foods for Reptiles and Amphibians by Lynn Davis

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      This book is a guide for owners of reptiles and amphibians who feed insects and other live foods to their pets. Advice is offered for selecting , ordering and raising your own supply of live invertebrate foods. More than a dozen species of live foods are discussed. The book includes instructions on keeping cultures of insects, and recipes & diets for insects.

Last updated
April, 10, 2012

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