Snout Rubbing- Effects of, and Prevention
I'm frequently asked- "What does the effects of nose rubbing look like on a WD nose? Is it a pus-filled bump that I should be looking for or discoloration? Maybe it's flesh degradation?"
It can be as mild as slightly darkened skin on the snout, slight bruising, or more moderate such as a scab, skin and tissue scraped off, reddened areas, swelling, or severe- damaged tissue accompanied by cheesy white pus, reddened areas and swelling ... Of course even a slightly darkened area on the skin can have a raging infection going on underneath. :(
Once the dragon actually starts to lose tissue from it's snout you can count that damage as permanent. :( Unless it's very mild damage to a scale, the tissue will not grow back.
If infection sets in and you can't control it with neosporin or an antibiotic ointment then the next step is prescribed antibiotics from the vet.
If damage and infection isn't taken care of properly (usually by a vet with prescribed meds) the infection can get into the bone and cause bone death. That's why you see so many dragons missing part of their upper or lower jaw, or worse - parts of both!). The infection can get into the blood stream and become a systemic infection causing your dragon to become very ill and perhaps even die.
The behaviour of snout rubbing, and the potential damage that it causes is serious! Abrasions and infections can be treated but if the underlying cause of the snout rubbing isn't fixed the problem will repeat itself over and over again. :(
Don't use a glass tank if at all possible. Water dragons do not and will not ever recognize glass and will repeatedly bang and rub their snouts on the glass, probably thinking "I can see through this so I have to be able to get through this somehow if I just keep trying" ...
Water dragons do best in large enclosures that are made of non-transparent sides ... such as wood or melamine. Even screen sides can cause major problems. The front of the cage can be glass, plexiglass or even screen ... but all of the rest should be a solid non transparent material.
If you must use a tank please:
There is no sure way to completely eliminate snout rubbing unless you let your dragon free roam ... but that has it's own set of problems (heating and lighting for a whole room for example) and if the dragon can still get to a window or glass object it might rub it's snout. :(
The next best thing, again, is a large enclosure made of non translucent materials.
Green Water Dragons, Sailfin Lizards and Basilisks (General Care and Maintenance of Series) by Philippe De Vosjoli
Basic but detailed information about the care, diet, and health of green water dragons, sailfin lizards and basilisks.
Anoles, Basilisks and Water Dragons : A Complete Pet Care Manual (More Complete Pet Owner's Manuals) by Richard D. Bartlett, Patricia P. Bartlett (Contributor)
Discussion of the general care of many species of anole, basilisks and water dragons. Excellent information regarding enclosures, cage building, and insect care and breeding.
Eat This Bug : A Guide to Invertebrate Live Foods for Reptiles and Amphibians by Lynn Davis
This book is a guide for owners of reptiles and amphibians who feed insects and other live foods to their pets. Advice is offered for selecting , ordering and raising your own supply of live invertebrate foods. More than a dozen species of live foods are discussed. The book includes instructions on keeping cultures of insects, and recipes & diets for insects.
Mar, 19, 2010
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